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4 – Steps to setup your Awesomatix

4 – Steps to setup your Awesomatix

A lot guys are thinking about how to setup the A700 correct?!
Here we will show you how our Awesomatix Team Drivers setup there Cars and which setup tools they use to make sure the A700 can show the best performance.

In the last time we showed a lot guys the difference between a perfect setuped car and a car which is not correct prepared. This makes a big difference !

For this we give you now a step to step setup help. We recommend to do this before every run with your Awesomatix.
With a bit training you will be able to setup the car in 5 minutes.

What you need ?

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– 1/10 TC Setup System (IMPORTANT with markings for Caster adjusting!)
– MMP Caster tools
– Tweak Plate
– Two setup blocks
– Droop gauge
– Ride Height gauge
– Tweakboard

Step 1 – Check tweak

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At first we make sure the chassis is clean and without any rubber on the edges. We clean the chassis now with brake cleaner and check at the same time no screws are out of the chassis ! If we find some bad or loosen screws then tight or change them.

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If the chassis is free from dirt we put the Car at the Tweak Plate now. We check if the Car/Chassis is flat and not tweaked.
After a crash it’s sometimes a bit tweaked. In this case we untighten all lower screws and thight them from the center out to the ends.
Then the Car should be flat again.

During pushing a bit on the bulkheads we can easy feel if something is tweaked or not.
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 Step 2 – Setup Droop

Now we setup the Droop. For this we need the two setup blocks and the Droop gauge.
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If we push a bit on the top of the wheelhubs we can adjust the Droop very precise. Its not important if we start with the front or the rear.

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We measure at the most out point of the Suspension Arm under the ball from the wheelhub. NOT under the heads of the screws !!!
If its needed to change/adjust the droop you do this during turning the Droop screw at the lower side of the chassis.
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Step 3 – Camber / Caster / Toe-In / Steering angle

After the chassis are flat now and droop is checked also we can start to check and adjust all angles. At first we put on the Setup System.

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Don’t forget the MMP Caster Tools at this stage. With these tools we can check fast and easy the caster angles.

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First we check all angles at the rear axle. Order for this is Camber -> Caster -> Toe-In.

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When we turn both turnbuckles into the same direction we change the Camber. If we turn the turnbuckles contrary then the caster will change.
Its important to make sure we turn every time the same amount on both sides !!!

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At the outside of the Setupsystem we can read our caster angle. As written before we change caster when turning the booth turnbuckles contrary.
If we change the caster angle on the rear of then we change the wheelbase of the Car ! -2° Caster means two degree to the front (to the middle of the car). With this setup the wheelbase is shorten. +2° Caster means two degree to the end of the car and this will be longer wheelbase.

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After Camber and Caster are correct we check now the Toe-In.
To change this we turn the one turnbuckle which connect the wheelhub to the bulkhead.

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TIP: With some Setupsystems could be a problem with the rear bodyposts by measuring the Toe-In. In this case use your fingers to bent the bodyposts a bit. Then its easy to check 😉

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Now the same procedures on the front suspension ! Same order as for the rear, Camber -> Caster -> Toe-Out.
Only difference is we check also the steering angle on the front. These should be the same left right !!
For this we turn on the Transmitter and the Car and steer complete right and complete left.
TIP: Make sure you deinstalled the pinion from your motor when you turn on the car with the Setupsystem on !!

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Is the Steering angle not same left and right then we set the End Points new on the Transmitter.

Step 4 – Ride Height and Tweak

Our Team Drivers found a new method to have every time a perfect right/left balance. We tweak the Car with a normal Tweakboard. Only difference is we don’t tweak crosswise as normal, instead we tweak axis by axis!
For this we need the Tweak Board and one of our setup blocks.

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After we build up the Tweakboard correct, we put on the setup block onto the solid side. We do this that the Tires don’t touch the Tweakboard with this axle. Only during this we can tweak axis by axis.

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TIP: Our Team Drivers glued the setup block with super glue on the Tweakboard. Before they put on some transparency to protect the board from the glue!

We need to center the Car on the TB. This is easy with the markings !

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Now we can see on the water level if these axle is left and right balanced or not.

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Here for example it isn’t balanced. To change this we turn the RHS screws which are used for Ride Height adjustment.

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To change the relations we turn in the RHS on one side and on the other we turn it out. Its very important to turn the RHS the same amount in like we turned the RHS on the other side out !!!
Often its not much to be changed here for a perfect balance. Sometimes only 1/18 turns needed.

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At the end booth Axis should be perfect balanced !!
After this Tweak action you can be every time sure that your Awesomatix will be 100% straight under acceleration and will have same balance on right and left hand corners.

Last step is to check the Ride Height.

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TIP: For a correct measurement of the Ride Height we put some Tire Additive under the Tires !

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This prevent from a uncorrect Result during the adhesion of the Tires on the glass plate.
Should be the Ride Height not correct, then we turn in (or out) the RHS screw axis for axis with the same amount left and right !
Again the same amount left and right is very important ! Otherwise the Tweak will be not balanced anymore.

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The difference of the Ride Height from front to rear should be normaly 0.2mm.

After you are done with these 4 steps, then your Awesomatix should be prepared in the best way for the upcoming run!

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